How to put on makeup

Q. I am never sure what the best way to put on my makeup is. Should I do the concealer first or after the base? Do I do the mascara last or the liner last?

A. There are many many ways to use makeup. Different looks will require different techniques but there is a very basic recipe for putting on the classic daytime look. Start with you concealer. Dot it on with the pad of your ring finger, not your pointer finger. The ring finger uses less pressure. Concentrate the concealer on the darkest areas of your face. These are usually the corners of your eyes, under your eyes and over any blemishes. If you are a woman beginning to show your age you may be getting deeper lines from the corners of your nose to the corners of your lips, and in the crook of your chin or between your eyes. You can use the concealer in these areas to lighten them as well. Lighter will make these areas seems less recessed or deep. Follow up with your foundation putting it only where your need it. Blend it out and over your face with a sponge makeup wedge, or a foundation brush. Follow with a very light dusting of powder. Next, apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks. Blend upward toward your cheekbones. Apply where you’d naturally blush. Your eyes will be next. Define your brows. Tweeze away stray hairs and define your brows with a few strokes of a brow pencil. Use feathery strokes and be sure your pencil is sharp. You can blend this out with a brow brush as well. Apply eye shadow over your entire eye area from the lash line to the brow bone. You can apply a shade darker to the hollow of your eye below the brow bone and right before the lid area. For nighttime you can bump up your eye color. If you use a lash curler you should use it at this point. Never use the curler after you have on your mascara that can cause your eyelashes to break off. If you use liner on your eyes this is the time to put it on. Apply a smooth even line at the base of your lid and into your lash line. Start at the outside of your eye and blend inward toward the inner corner. Apply one or two coats of mascara. Your lips will finish your face. If you use a lip liner apply it now and I always cover the entire lip area if I use a liner, that way when your lipstick wears off you are not left with lined naked lips. After the liner you can finish with a great lipstick or lip gloss. Don’t forget to bring some touch up items with you during the day. I suggest a concealer and a lip color at the minimum. Hope this helps.

Hair that shines!

Q. My hair just never looks shiny. I see some girls with great shine in their hair. How do I get that? I have blonde highlighted hair.
A. Super glossy hair is something anyone can achieve with the right help. Here are 5 ideas from Harris Publications, Inc. trade magazine for hair stylists. Keep your hair in good condition. Split ends and over processed color can zap you hair of its natural shine and leave it really dull. Use a high quality conditioner on your hair every shampoo and use a deep conditioner or hair masque at least once a week. If you’ve already done some damage to your hair and it’s looking frayed or over done visit a salon and get a professional conditioning treatment or a semi-permanent hair gloss treatment. The gloss color treatment won’t use any damaging peroxide and will actually help mend the split ends and will add shine. Second, try some at home styling products like shine drops or silicone sprays. The rule to remember with these great tools is a little goes a long, long way. Too much will leave your hair looking oily, but the right amount will add killer shine. The third rule to remember is also about product use. Go easy on the gel or hairspray. Too much will gum up your hair and leave it looking dull. Fourthly, avoid the heat. Blow dryers and flat irons can stress out over dry hair. Since you told me you do have color in your hair I strongly suggest you use a thermal protector product in your hair every time you blow dry and flat iron. These products are really effective at limiting the damage done by heat. Lastly, talk to your stylist about color. Be sure you are getting the color highlights that will add shine and reflect light. You may want to consider getting a clear gloss or a semi-permanent color. Both of these will seal you hair’s cuticle and add shine. For the readers who currently don’t have color in their hair but want shine I suggest some professional color. A boost of highlight adds brightness and shine to any style. Dark hair absorbs light but if you add a few panels of a lighter shade you’ll get reflection of light which adds shine. Love your dark color and don’t want any light color added? Dark hair really benefits from the clear gloss treatments. It can leave it looking like glass. Try these steps and you are sure to find the shine you are looking for.

Great hair for guys

Q. Last week you answered a question about fall styles for a student. My son is a college student and he wanted me to write in and ask you what’s hot this year for men’s hair?
A. That’s a fun question because I get asked far less about men and men’s styles. According to Fashion Trend’s Website young college age men are opting for fringe (or bangs) this season. All the runway shows have young men in a more masculine version of the ladies long front fringe (or long front bang). This look features a shorter back and side cut with front fringe. The length of these bangs varies so it’s an easy style to customize to a specific face shape. Most of the time the bangs are side swept. The other key item in men’s hair for the fall is texture. Cutting in texture and even embracing some wave are all popular. Using hair styling product properly will give these trendy men’s styles the right mix of texture and ease. Be sure to have your son ask his stylist to give him a quick lesson in how to use product (like gel, paste or spray) to best manage his hair texture and style. Another really popular look this year for men of all ages, young and not so young is the slick back. This year’s Ralph Lauren catalog shows nearly all its male models in this classic look. Its fun and upkeep and styling are very easy which makes it a good choice for a busy student, a top executive or just a man with an eye for style. Guys with straight hair will want their slick back style with more length on top while men with wavy or curly hair will want a shorter more textured version. This style can have a definite part line or can be nearly part-less with a slick back from the forehead and sides. Men are getting color more and more as well. Color helps bring out the look of layers and texture and adds some kick to any hair cut. All-over blonde for men is very popular this season but is usually best with a polished style like the slick back while color layering and tips are best for the fringe or textured styles. No matter what style your son chooses it’s great to see men take an interest in hair and fashion. In the past, the 20’s, 30’s, and 40’s men paid great attention to clothing, hair, fashion, even their hats. Its fun to see men involved in there appearance again. One only needs to check out the pop music stars or TV shows to see men are wearing hair again. The just buzz it off look is a thing of the past, unless you take it all the way off to bald and that is still hot.

Fall Hair

Q. My daughter and I always fight about her hair and the styles that she wants to wear when to school. What do you suggest for back to school hair styles?

A. I will assume since you are arguing with your daughter in the mornings about her hair that she is not a college student. Beyond that assumption I have no idea from your question how old your daughter is. Hair style is an age appropriate issue. I can only give you some broad advice and suggestions on this topic. Elementary students have energetic days. They also usually require some help getting ready in the mornings. Keeping her hair from restricting her ability to work at a desk with her head looking down, being able to actively play and looking fun are all considerations for young girls. Right now ponytails and pigtails are all the rage, even for older girls. These are great choices for younger girls as well. Make her hair fun with hair accessories. Barrettes, headbands and shorter bangs are all popular options as well. If your daughter has curly hair or hair that is difficult to brush in the mornings keep a spray bottle ready with a mixture of water and a small amount of hair conditioner. Spray the hair until it’s damp and combing or brushing will go smoothly. If you need to blow dry the style it will be easier and quicker if you shampoo the night before and simply use the spray to dampen it the next morning. Junior High girls are a different story. These tween girls want to look like the older girls but still need some help in the mornings and still have very active school days. Teach her how to do a pony tail with some height on top. It’s easy you just tease the top and crown then smooth the hair into a pony. Right now it’s popular to wear a thin headband and a ponytail. If you daughter is looking for a fun new hairstyle have her try layers and some bangs (or fringe as we call it in the biz). Girls in this age group are often very active and busy with after school activities as well. You’ll want to be sure whatever she wears can last through the long school day and post school activities. High School girls tend to know what’s in style and they all want to look like most of their friends. They fall into one of two categories. The girls who want to sleep as long as possible and get up and get ready fast, these gals may also be athletes who need quick easy hair or the girls who want to play and fuss and can be a bathroom hog. I suggest to make morning easier with a teenager you assume they will need a lot of time and space to get ready. A simple purchase of a vanity mirror and a place to do their hair in their room could save you a lot of morning stress. If your daughter is taking up a lot of time attempting new styles invest in a salon visit and let a stylist give her instruction on quick and easy ways to get “the look” she’s after. All hair styles at any age have three major considerations. The time it takes to style, the money it takes for upkeep, and the personality of the wearer. In the end, like so many things preparation ahead of time and the proper tools and supplies all make the job easier. Good Luck, have a great school year.

Summer Makeup - Part 2 Eyes

Q. What do you suggest for eye makeup for the summer?
A. One of the fun things about summer is how bright and sunny everything looks, including the face and skin. Everything is sun kissed and bright. To brighten up your eyes try this technique. Hughes of white, pale pink or pearl deflect the appearance of darkness around your eyes. A sheer brush of soft color like lavender or soft green will have the same effect. Always remember that a flat finish on your eyes will absorb light and a shimmer will reflect light. As you age, you’ll find that the shimmers are not always best because they do draw more attention to your fine lines. If you are a person worried about fine lines around your eyes try the shimmer color on the brow bone and use a flat color on your lids and near the laugh line area. During the day in the summer keep it simple. You can even use some bronzer on your brow bone and a simple brush of mascara on your lashes. Use waterproof if you’ll be in or near water or be out in the heat.
In the evening go for more vibrant color and use the fun shimmers on your entire eye if your eyes are young enough or opt for the lighter fun shimmers on your brown bone right under your eyebrow. Here’s another important eye makeup tip you’ll want to know for the summer. To avoid eye shadow creases start with a concealer or foundation on your lids. Dust your entire eye area with powder then use a powder eye shadow and avoid the cream shadow. Summer is about fun, so play with colors and shimmers and have fun!

Summer Makeup Tips - Part 1

Q. Last week you gave us some summertime hairstyles do you have tips for summertime makeup? I always feel like my makeup does not look right in the summer.
A. Great question and to answer it properly will take more than this week’s column. I could, in fact, write an entire book on subject but I will attempt to give you a break down of summer makeup tips over the next 3 weeks. I’ll dedicated this week to giving you tips about the face, next week I’ll elaborate on the eyes and finish with the lips the following week. The face is the most challenging element for summer. Summer changes your skin. The same foundation that worked in the winter won’t usually work in the summer. Foundation rule 101 your color should match your skin. It should blend and almost disappear. If it doesn’t you have the wrong color. You need to know your skin type. Are you Normal – Dry – Oily – Combination – or Sensitive? If you have some special needs like battling oil or dryness you can choose makeup that helps. Dewy moisture-rich foundations are great choices to help with dry skin, mineral or powder based combat oiliness and leaves your skin looking cool and non-greasy. People with sensitive skin types should prime their skin with an appropriate base or moisturizer providing a protective barrier before applying their foundation. It’s most important for these skin types to avoid any product containing alcohol or fragrance. Tinted moisturizers are a wonderful alternative to base foundations in the heat of summer. They are lighter and provide less coverage but most are infused with a protective SPF providing some sun protection. For the most professional application of foundation use a triangle sponge wedge. Apply your product in a thin layer and blend well around the jaw line. I am often asked about powder foundation vs. liquid and how to choose between them. If you want a dewy or sheer finish, choose liquid if you want a thinner finish that will help control shine and oil choose powder. Even if you choose liquid foundation you should have a great powder ready to use in the summer. Loose powder will give you more coverage than pressed, but pressed is easy to toss into a purse and use for mid day touch ups and to keep your face looking fresh in the summer heat. Here’s an extra tip, humidity can cause pressed powder compacts, eye shadows and blush to cake and clump so avoid storing them in the bathroom. The final element for the face is blush. I could do an entire column on the proper application of blush, and probably will at some future date, but the basics for summer are color choice and finish. The key’s to making blush look natural are matching your color to the natural way your face will flush and getting the blush in the proper location, the apples of your cheeks. You can lighten up your blush for the summer with just a kiss of color or you can opt for a great bronzer in place of a blush. If you choose to use a bronzer apply it to the areas of your face that the sun would hit, the nose, across the forehead, and high on the cheekbones. The most important summer tip is keep it simple and sheer and pack a few touch up items like compact powder and bronzer. Next week Summer Eyes.

Q. What hairstyles are popular this summer? I feel like I need something new.

A. Hairstyles are part of the fashion industry and are therefore always posting new trends. Last summer the hottest trends in hair were the pony tail and the precision (sharp edged and angled) cuts. This year the pony tail returns; big and fluffy with a top bump-up in the crown or sleek and tight to the head with a straight ponytail. The bob is still popular but the blunt, angular precision cut version has given way to a more easy-care version. This year the asymmetric bob is popular, with one side longer than the other. The bob also is going softer with more gradual lengths being cut in to add volume. The fringe or bangs are wispier and the whole look is more relaxed. Fringe (bangs) are hot hot hot this year. Long side swept bangs, short baby bangs, and wispy chopped fringe are all making the fashion cat walks. Layers are also popular on the model circuit this season. The look is layers and textures with a natural almost unstyled feel that’s free and full of movement. Pay attention to all the stars and shows this summer and you’ll also find that short hair is everywhere. There will always be long hair and thus the continued popularity of the pony tail but short hair is really in this summer. For awhile all the celebs were growing out their hair or opting for hair extensions to get instant length but not this summer. This summer all those long tresses are being cut short. You’ll see short hair on magazine covers and on many of your favorite actresses. Color trends have changed for this season as well. Wild hard edge color has given way to softer and more traditional color options. Blonde and golden brown highlights as well as soft strawberry reds are the trendy choices. The possible exception to this trend is platinum. This white blonde color is everywhere and is one of the most popular with summer short cuts. Remaining in style is the color combination of blonder or lighter on the top and darker or browner around the base line of the hair. Overall, the word for the summer of 2010 is, “easy”. The look is carefree and easy with softer edges, softer color and more free-form cuts. Personally, I think taking it easy for the summer is a great trend. I plan to embrace it.